2009年7月31日 星期五

Final Project: 8 street trends

1. zoot suit


1930s/Southwestern United States

Zoot suit has high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed peggedtrousers, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders. Mexican American youths who developed their own subculture during the 1930s and 1940s in the Southwestern United States. They wore distinctive clothes and spoke their own dialect. Often zoot suiters wear a felt hat with a long feather and pointy, French-style shoes.


Kevan Hall RTW Spring 2009

Some of the garments in this collection are wide and pointed lapels with zoot suit-style. The result of all collection was a pre-Technicolor palette that lent itself beautifully to the designer’s structured “let’s do lunch” day dresses and signature diva gowns trimmed with crystals.


John Galliano/ Spring 2002

It is an imposing checkered snakeskin zoot suit paved the way for Mexican-beaded shirts and suits, wide denim ensembles embroidered with cars, and a great knitted Andean coat.

2.Beatniks


Marilyn Monroe, 1960s

The concept of Beatniks was to promote anti-materialistic lifestyle. It represented a philosophy of anti-materialism and was a direct inspiration for the hippies’ movement. The “sex pot meets Beatnik” style, the sweater over the black catsuit, Monroe wore.




Betsey Johnson/Fall 2008


Betsey Johnson's beatnik romp was Bryant Park, but the imaginary setting was a dark and smoky joint in the Village like the Bottom Line or the Bitter End. Johnson aimed for a "beatnik chic," complete with bongo players at the head of the runway and VIPs seated at cafe tables complete with candy cigarettes and roses stuck in Chianti bottles, but Johnson seemed to find much inspiration in the '60s and '70s, with a mod A-line minidress, hot pants, and a few off-the-shoulder founcy peasant blouses and dresses.

3.Teddy Boys



The Teddyboys wore was designed to shock their parents' generation. It emerged in the 1950s as Britain was coming to the end of post-war austerity and represented the first face of British youth culture. It consisted of an Edwardian style drape jacket, much too 'camp' for a working class man.




Charles Anastase/ Fall 2009

This collection influence by secaond hand garments and teddyboys style, which with suit jacket and suits style. There's no Charles Anastase, showing at LFW for only the second time, found inspiration in his own youth, creating looks that spanned several subcultures; goth, punk, and teddy boys, among others. According to Anastase "It was an autobiographical show and I was looking at my teenage years. It is about youth culture with strong elements of today."
4.Mods

1967, London

Mod fashion started in London, in the 60s. A small group of young people started to look to French and Italian cool, combined with American Ivy League style to create their own unique British youth fashion.



Philip Lim Fall 2009

Philip Lim’s Fall 2009 collection ispired by 60’s rock and mod style, the designs were reminiscent of the Beatles, Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix. From more conservative suits to youthful minis, there’s really something for everyone with this line. A very on-trend one shoulder dress followed by a house dress and goat hair jacket show the extent of diversity in this line.

5.Hippies


1960s

The hippie was a youth subculture that began in San Francisco during the 60s. Hippies valued their own communities, listened to rock music, supported the sexual revolution. Bright colored clothing, jeans and long hair are their styles.

Anna Sui, Spring 2009
This collection is in the hippie style, colorful and free. There are plenty of pretty new styles anyone can pull off, including these fuss-free, flattering looks.


Miss Sixty, Spring 2009

Miss Sixty has a hippie, fun, hip seventies vibe that is playful and wearable, something much needed in fashion right now.
6.Disco

Disco is a genre of dance music that originated in African American. The disco style was born in the 1970s. People like hugging suits, wide flared trousers and platform shoes, etc.


Gucci, 2009 RST
Gucci is bringing back some key elements of 70's Disco style. The long, flowing hair, with the part down the middle, psychodelic colors and patterns


Christoph Decarnin, 2009

It was a collection with Disco and Glam-Rock style. Super-sparkling studs on shimmering slinky dresses and bold, pointed shoulders make up the Fall 2009 ready-to-wear Balmain Collection by Christoph Decarnin.

7.Punk
UK punks,1986
Punk emerged in the 1975 to 1978 in both Europe and the US.

Anna Sui's Spring 2008

When it comes to Anna Sui's quirky clothing, no matter how funky or punky she goes with her designs, somehow it always works. Almost like a walking cartoon, Sui's designs bring to mind an edgy gal with razor-sharp wit and a zany zest for life.
Alexander Wang fall 2008

Alexander Wang fall 2008 collection featured models storming the runway in a street urchin-y mix of slashed, holey denim, ripped stockings, and zippered black-and-white waistcoats.
The thing about punk is that no matter how mainstream the idea has become the look itself is eternally fringe and still strangely potent. The most important thing is to avoid cliché.
8.Hip Hop


Hip hop style appear in low-income urban areas in the 80s, hip hop portrayed the disfranchisement and distrust of the status quo. It represents fashion for urban spaces and is an expression of the socially marginalized.Color or thematic matching of formal, military, and sport garments showed the ingenuity of less affluent but style-conscious youngsters.


BABY PHAT SPRING '09
Baby Phat has officially transitioned from street fashion to runway sophisticate. The designs were hip hop chic with retro jumpsuits and head scarves.

Final Project: 2 new street trends

Sporty Style



a baseball player look.



Almost every piece of sports clothing is designed to be light weight so the athlete is not encumbered by its weight. Clothing worn for some other forms of exercise, should not unduly restrict movement and may also have specific requirements.The best athletic wear for some forms of exercise, for example cycling, should not create drag or be too bulky. On the other hand it should be loose enough so as not to restrict movement.


y-3, Fall 2009
a seriously chic cropped baseball jacket

Lacoste, Spring / Summer '06
This collection all in srpoty look.
Orange cotton short sleeved half zip sport shirt with racing stripe detail
Orange cotton low rise pants
Bohemian Style


The term "Bohemian" is applied to people who live unconventional, usually artistic, lives. The adherents of the "Bloomsbury Group", which formed around the Stephen sisters, Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf in the early 20th century, are among the best-known examples. The original "Bohemians" were travelers or refugees from central Europe. In the late 19th century and first half of the 20th, aspects of Bohemian fashion reflected the lifestyle itself.


Prada, Spring 2005
The garments in collection are colorful and lively

Rebecca Taylor, Spring 2009

Taylor cited an author Karen Blixen as inspiration for the tribal block prints and otherwise international feel of the collection, but the dizzying array of patterns and textures lacked cohesion. This Bohemian collection is intended as clothes to make girls feel pretty.

2009年7月19日 星期日

10.1-11.1 - Historical & Artisitic styles

influences from the Art Nouveau style

Fashion designers translated these curvilinear Art Nouveau compositions into flowing draperies and often used textiles with exotic motifs and color combinations.



Prada
Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear

The collection was reminiscent of the late '60s and early '70s Art Nouveau style. The fairy designs were paired with contrasting colorful plaid stockings and dark black eye makeup.

influences from the Impressionism style





Enrico Coveri
Spring 2008

These mini-skirt combination of elegant impressionist style, Coveri added of light and boundless vitality.


influences from the Baroque style

The Baroque character was expressed in its corresponding costumes by adopting extravagant silhouettes, the use of contrasting colors and patterns, and voluminous accessories.



Stuart Vevers
2009 Ready-to-Wear

This collection is based on the most exquisite functional luxury that serves as a homage to the Baroque style.


influences from the Renaissance style

Carefully harmonized color and texture combinations made gowns and male outfits stand out in subtle ways. Clothes were designed to complement the anatomy. Wide necklines allowed the wearer to show off parts of their flesh, emphasizing their humanity.



Cavalli
Spring 2008


influences from the Gothic style

Tight-fitting and draped sections were juxtaposed in the construction of garments to translate the contrast between hard stone and fragile glass in the cathedrals.





Rick Owens
Fall 2006


influences from the Romatic styles

Romantic fashions opposed the balanced Neoclassic silhouettes by introducing unnatural waistlines at the rib cage and reintroducing the ballooning, Gothic-like "leg of mutton" sleeves.



Dries Van Noten
Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear

2009年7月15日 星期三

Assignment 8.1-9.1 - Geneology of a Garment

Jumpsuit

At first, jumpsuit referred to the utilitarian one-piece garments used by parachuters and skydivers.


The skydivers' jumpsuits were simple garments designed to insulate the body from the cold of high altitudes and minimize risk of covering important handles and grips.

After years, jumpsuit has come to be used as a common term for any one-piece garment with sleeves and legs.


Peacock Jumpsuit, NBC Jumpsuit (1974)

The Peacock jumpsuit, used during a 1974 tour, proved to be one of Elvis’ personal favorites. A white jumpsuit with a V-neck and high collar, the Peacock features a large blue and gold bird rendered in a stylized design on both the front and back.


short pants jumpsuits style.


Katie Holmes

Actress Maggie Gyllenhaal arrives at a film premiere in London.
The loosely-fit, floor-length Stella McCartney design was unusual departure from the evening gowns normally demanded by such an occasion.

2009年6月29日 星期一

5.1-6.1-7.1 - Historical Draped/Tailored Garments

Draped Garments


Traditional Swahili Garment
East Africa, late 19th century
These women wear hand-painted cloth draped in the style in which free women wore their clothing--one piece covering the upper body and another piece covering the lower body.



Moroccan garment

This Moroccan garment is called gandora and is worn by men in Morocco. It's made of rayon. This garment has masculine embroidery on the front around the neck and arms openings.



Jananese Monk, about 13th century

He wears a vest and long skirtlike garment. A full shawl covers most of the vest and the upper part of his body. His upper garment, which is draped over his left arm, is also green with a floral border made of cut gold leaf.

Tailored Garments


Queen Elizabeth I, 15th and 16th century

This portrait of Queen Elizabeth I shows dress that narrows and elongates the waist through corseting, exaggerates shoulders through the use of padded sleeves and stiffened collar, and distorts the lower body form and proportions by the use of a hooped petticoatand a relatively short hemline. Corseting, shoulder pads, and even hip pads have all been used in this century to accentuate body features deemed beautiful according to current fashion.



typical English yeoman of the early 17th century

The garment was the linen shirt, which was considerably longer and looser than its modern counterpart. Breeches were designed in a variety of styles and fabrics, from elaborate trunk hose to plain knee-length. Stockings were tailored of cloth or could have been the relatively new knit type. A doublet, close-fitting and padded, was the usual upper garment. Capes and loose-fitting coats were the usual outer-wear for men and women.



King in Qing Dynasty, 1715 AC

The color yellow symbolize the king in China. It was banned to normal people. Only king wears the handmade gorgeous tailored garments.