2009年6月29日 星期一

5.1-6.1-7.1 - Historical Draped/Tailored Garments

Draped Garments


Traditional Swahili Garment
East Africa, late 19th century
These women wear hand-painted cloth draped in the style in which free women wore their clothing--one piece covering the upper body and another piece covering the lower body.



Moroccan garment

This Moroccan garment is called gandora and is worn by men in Morocco. It's made of rayon. This garment has masculine embroidery on the front around the neck and arms openings.



Jananese Monk, about 13th century

He wears a vest and long skirtlike garment. A full shawl covers most of the vest and the upper part of his body. His upper garment, which is draped over his left arm, is also green with a floral border made of cut gold leaf.

Tailored Garments


Queen Elizabeth I, 15th and 16th century

This portrait of Queen Elizabeth I shows dress that narrows and elongates the waist through corseting, exaggerates shoulders through the use of padded sleeves and stiffened collar, and distorts the lower body form and proportions by the use of a hooped petticoatand a relatively short hemline. Corseting, shoulder pads, and even hip pads have all been used in this century to accentuate body features deemed beautiful according to current fashion.



typical English yeoman of the early 17th century

The garment was the linen shirt, which was considerably longer and looser than its modern counterpart. Breeches were designed in a variety of styles and fabrics, from elaborate trunk hose to plain knee-length. Stockings were tailored of cloth or could have been the relatively new knit type. A doublet, close-fitting and padded, was the usual upper garment. Capes and loose-fitting coats were the usual outer-wear for men and women.



King in Qing Dynasty, 1715 AC

The color yellow symbolize the king in China. It was banned to normal people. Only king wears the handmade gorgeous tailored garments.

2009年6月25日 星期四

3.1: 6 Functions of Dress

1.Environmental Protection



Arab

In desert area, this kind of garment is not only their culture, but also is an environmental protection. It can people from sunlight and cover noses to cut off sand.

2.Decoration



Atayal Tribe, Taiwan

Tattooing on the face symbolizes becoming a real man or woman for Atayal tribe in Taiwan. And it also represents beauty. Every tattoo has different meaning.

3.Gender Differentiation



Speedo, swimming wear collections

Swimming wears are always different for men and women. Men’s swimming wear usually has only one part, swimming brief/short. For women, it cover the chest and hips.

4.Group Membership



Karl Kani 2009

Hip Pop style, The group members of hip pop style dress themselves like this, wide hoodies, jeans and T-shirts etc.

5.Ceremonialism



Pronovias 2010 collection

White symbolizes pure and beauty. It’s a culture in many countries. Bride should wear white dress in the wedding.

6.Sexual Enhancement



30’s 40s’ Cheongsam, China

Chinese think that it is sexy and elegant when women wear cheongsam. This kind of garment can show woman’s body well. It is popular in 30’s and 40’s in China.

2009年6月21日 星期日

2.1: Source Book Entry: Materials


FREE EAST spring/2005

Chinese Silk + cotton

These garments were designed by FREE EAST. It uses Chinese painting as pattern on the silk. Making cheongsam has a new different look.



Japanese Kimono

It wrap in fine Japanese conttons or enhance a doorway with traditional Japanese Noren.



Women's Greatcoat Dress 1795

India textile
with many colorful and complicated pattern




Linen dress with Art Nouveau motifs
American Textile

new technological textile, light and good quality



Thai Silk

a hand-woven fabric, is noted for its exceptional luster, texture and its striking complement of contrastiong colors-such as emerald green and magenta-coexisting in perfect harmony.





Viona dress 2009
pattern:Villikaali(Maiji & Kristina Isola)
100% Silk

morden silk with pattern



The Coat of Arms of Charles 1679

it worked in gold and colored threads
weaved by los of different threads

2009年6月17日 星期三

1.1 Fashion Source book

The is one of my favorite brand, V&R. It was created by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren.
Every time I watch Viktor & Rolf’s runway show, it always makes me smile. The two talented young design partners are just like kids. They are fun and have a sense of humor. They like to play around during the busy, demanding fashion week, making their work interesting.


Let's take a look at some of their collections.

Spring 2003 RTW

Fall 2005 RTW


Fall 2007 RTW